High Life

88 品 “踏入二十一世纪，我隔年到访中国，每每被其变化所吸引……” 葡萄酒大师简西斯• 罗宾逊 在中国历史上，葡萄园一直集中在西北部，即现今新疆、甘肃及宁夏一带。 时至十九世纪末二十世纪初，现代品种葡萄从法国经山东进入中国。近年来， 法国酒业巨擘相继在中国扎根，如酩悦• 轩尼诗-路易• 威登集团位于宁夏的 Chandon China 起泡酒、其主要对手保乐力加位于宁夏的贺兰山系列葡萄酒及 罗斯柴尔德男爵庄园位于山东蓬莱的新项目等。 酩悦• 轩尼诗-路易• 威登集团旗下的敖云酒庄，乃挑战葡萄种植极限的壮 举，其精制的佳酿，更是中国葡萄酒现代史上的翘楚。敖云酒庄之名源自「祥瑞 之云」，其位于云南西北、喜马拉雅山脉海拔6,740米的梅里雪山山麓。由于地 势陡峭险峻，敖云酒庄的314块斜坡梯田分别位于阿东、西当、斯农及朔日四 村。葡萄梯田所处之位置，介乎海拔2,200至2,600米，可比智利和阿根廷海拔 最高的安第斯山脉葡萄园。 “I have been visiting China every two years this century and am always fascinated by the changes…” Jancis Robinson MW Historically, vineyards were concentrated in northwestern China, in places like Xinjiang, Gansu and Ningxia. This did not change until the turn of the 20th century, when modern French grape varieties were introduced to China via Shandong. In recent years, vinous powerhouses from France have literally taken root in China, including LVMH’s Chandon China in Ningxia, its rival Pernod Ricard’s HelanMountain in the same region and Domaines Barons de Rothschild’s budding estate in Penglai, Shandong. LVMH’s Ao Yun, literally Flying above the Clouds, is one of the grandest Chinese wines to date as well as a daring feat pushing the boundaries of viticultural possibilities. Situated high on the Himalayas and at the foothills of the 6,740 meter Meili SnowMountains in northwestern Yunnan, the estate’s steep-slope vineyards, totalling a staggering 314 plots, are scattered in the villages of Adong, Xidang, Sinong and Shuori at 2,200 to 2,600 meters above sea level, rivalling the most extreme Chilean and Argentinian vineyards.