High Life

INDULGE 「德国仅出产半甜不干的白酒和味道单薄的红酒」这一说法不仅 是陈词滥调，更严重脱离现实，实属葡萄酒世界里流传最广、误 人至深的谬论。《品》有幸到访德国顶尖红酒产区符腾堡，深入 了解正在冉冉上升的德意志红酒瑰宝。 That Germany produces only sweet whites and pale reds is arguably the biggest myth in the vinous world. High Life had the singular opportunity to explore, first-hand, the country’s premium red wine region. 巴 登 -符腾堡为德国十六个联邦州之一，位于该国西南部，比邻法国东部阿 尔萨斯与瑞士北部德语区。基于历史原因，巴登-符腾堡本身并不是葡萄酒 产区，而是分为巴登和符腾堡两个独立产区。符腾堡坐拥约11,300 公顷的葡萄 园，乃德国第四大葡萄酒产区。德国葡萄酒向来以白酒为大宗，一直占全国总产 量的三分之二。纵观德国合共十三个产区，只有两个是红多白少，符腾堡即其中 之一，红白比例为七比三。符腾堡大概是德国阳光最充足、气候最温暖的产区， 与法国香槟区位处同一纬度。 莱茵高和摩泽尔被誉为德国产区中的皇与后，当地雷司令的种植面积比例高 达六成至八成。符腾堡却反其道而行，种植品种繁多的酿酒葡萄，哪怕是该区最 普遍的特罗灵格，其种植面积比例亦不足20%。凭籍18.7% 的种植面积，雷司 令在符腾堡已占有榜眼位置。除了弥足珍贵的冰酒和特选干颗粒级贵腐甜酒外， 符腾堡出产的顶级雷司令几乎都是全干型，少见旧派微甜及半甜风格。与德国中 部产区的风格相比，符腾堡佳酿的酒体亦较为丰满，与各类食物配搭的可塑性极 高。 P ossessing approximately 11,300 hectares of vineyards, Württemberg is the fourth largest wine region of Germany. In a country where whites perennially represent two-thirds of total production, Württemberg stands out, saliently and defiantly, as one of the only two regions that produce more reds thanwhites, at a ratio of 7:3. Württemberg is probably Germany’s sunniest and warmest wine region, sitting latitudinally on a par with Champagne. Juxtaposed with Mosel and Rheingau, where Riesling constitutes an overwhelming majority, Württemberg is remarkable for its extensive vinous portfolio, in which not even the single largest variety, Trollinger, reaches the 20 percent mark of total plantation. Riesling is the region’s second most planted variety, representing some 18.7 percent of acreage. Apart from the noble Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese styles, Württemberg’s premium Rieslings are almost invariably dry and often fuller in body than those from regions further up north.