High Life

品 84 #15 2017 年 12 月 “优质马德拉酒乃全球最长寿的佳酿。” 葡萄酒大师简西斯• 罗宾逊 在最长寿葡萄酒排行榜上，马德拉酒可不仅是名列前茅，而是 当仁不让地永远占据着第一把交椅。这是多个因素之间相互作 用的结果。第一，马德拉群岛上的火山型土壤，为马德拉独有 的葡萄品种增添突出的酸性，甚至高于丽丝玲和黑比诺等高酸 性葡萄品种，其酸性之高令人乍舌。第二，加度过程导致马德 拉酒拥有较高的剩余糖分和酒精度，有助于陈年。第三，马德 拉酒的氧化陈酿法类似陈年波特酒，而全球绝无仅有的加热温 存过程则让马德拉酒练成金刚不败身。马德拉酒在未开封前可 永远保存，至少理论上如是；开封后，则仍可保存一至两年。 马德拉酒在英美两国向来备受推崇。在威廉• 莎士比亚的 历史剧《亨利四世》中，只懂纸上谈兵的约翰• 法斯塔夫爵 士，被指竟然为了一只鸡腿和一杯马德拉酒，而出卖了自己的 灵魂。因谋反罪而被判处死刑的克拉伦斯公爵，相传选择溺死 在注满马德拉甜酒的木桶里。在大西洋的彼岸，马德拉酒为美 国独立宣言大会上的祝酒，深受乔治• 华盛顿、约翰• 亚当 斯和托马斯• 杰弗逊等人的喜爱。 始创于1870年的 Justino’s，多年来一直是顶尖的马德 拉酒酒庄。 百利临洋酒的行政总裁罗彼得总结说：“马德拉酒不仅是 葡萄牙最重要的宝藏之一，更是葡萄酒世界最值得发掘的秘密 之一。” “Good qualitymadeira is the world’s longest living wine.” Jancis RobinsonMW Madeira’s unrivalled longevity is due to a combination of factors. First, thanks to the archipelago’s volcanic soil, Madeiranvarieties often reach lip-smacking acidity, surpassing even Riesling and Pinot Noir. Second, residual sugar and alcohol content from fortification. Third, oxidative ageing is similar to tawny ports, whereas the unique heating process renders the wine virtually imperishable. Unopened, a bottle can theoretically last forever; opened, it can easily last for a year or two. Madeira has for long been revered by the British and Americans. In William Shakespeare’s Henry IV, Sir John Falstaff allegedly sold his soul for a leg of chicken and a goblet of Madeira. Sentenced to death for treason, Duke of Clarence opted to die by drowning himself in a vessel of sweet Madeira. Across the pond, Madeira was the wine used to toast the American Declaration of Independence, appreciated by GeorgeWashington, John Adams and Thomas Jefferson. Established in 1870, Justino’s is one of the leading Madeira producers. “Madeira is not onlyone of Portugal’s greatest treasures,” remarks Mr Pedro Lobo of Palatium Fine Wines, “but also one of the world’s best kept vinous secrets to be discovered.” 此酒单一选用舍西亚尔品种白葡萄，以天然加热方式温存，并 在美国及法国橡木桶内成熟逾十年之久。酒身呈清澈的桃花心 木色带红玉髓反光，清晰的香味散发乌梅、椰丝、松子、八角 和法式牛奶咖啡。酒体结构由清脆的酸性支撑，每公升7.49 克的酒石酸令每公升54克的剩余糖分变得沉默。活跃的味道绽 放苦橙、芒果沾酱、丁香、薰衣草茶和水果蛋糕。口感属中等 厚重，酒精度达19%，入口初段活泼、中段错落有致、后段绵 长。适饮温度为摄氏10度，可配搭海鲜及寿司、作餐前酒或调 制马德拉通宁水。 A single-varietal Sercial, canteiro process followed by barrel maturation inAmericanand Frenchoak for 10-plusyears. Limpid mahoganywith carnelian reflex, the articulate nose effuses ume, shredded coconut, pine nut, star anise and café au lait. Anchored bybriskacidity, sweetness is barelynoticeable.Thevibrantpalate emanates Seville orange, mango chutney, clove, lavender tisane and fruitcake. Medium-bodied at 19%, the racyentryevolves into a chiselled mid-palate, leading to a prolonged finish. Best served at 10 degrees with seafood or sushi as apéritif orMadeira Tonic. Justino’s Madeira Sercial 10 Years Old