High Life

72 品 董建华先生烹制的避风塘炒大闸蟹。 他解释说：“众所周知，避风塘 炒蟹一般选用肉蟹。大闸蟹的肉质极为 细嫩，以避风塘方法烹制，很容易就散 开。当时，我听说董建华先生喜欢味道 鲜辣的菜色，就想办法要令他喜出望 外。我的客户可是让他的司机每天将几 只大闸蟹送过来餐厅给我试验，直至我 创出了新食谱。” 经过不断尝试，黎有甜师傅发现避 风塘炒大闸蟹的秘诀，在于将大闸蟹急 冻，趁冰硬时去壳并快速翻炒。他笑着 说：“那可是极为复杂困难的菜色，但 最后大家都吃得很开心。当晚，董先生 还将不少大闸蟹打包回府。” Chef Lai worked for Hang Seng Bank for 33 years before retiring in 2000. He opened Hong Kong’s Tim’s Kitchen that same year and in 2007, Dr Stanley Ho and Angela Leong invited him to establish Tim’s Kitchen at Hotel Lisboa in Macau. “Dr Ho’s favorite is the fishmaw, but it cannot be too chewy or too soft. The level of perfection required can be a challenge if one does not know his preference,” Chef Lai says. When it comes to the biggest challenge of his career, Chef Lai recalls the time he had to take on the difficult task of cooking up “Typhoon shelter” style hairy crab for former Hong Kong Chief Executive Tung Chee-hwa. “Everyone knows that we usually use meaty crabs for Typhoon shelterstir-friedcrab.Thehairycrabs are very delicate and can easily fall apart if we cook it ‘Typhoon shelter’ style,” he explains. “However, at that time, I had been informed that Tung Chee-hwa liked spicy food and I had to impress him, so my client had his driver deliver several hairy crabs to my restaurant every single day for experimentation until I finally found a solution.” After days of relentless effort, Chef Lai’s trick of cooking up the “Typhoon shelter” style hairy crab was to freeze it until it became like a rocky chunk of ice cream before taking off the shell for a quick stir- fry. “It was a difficult case but in the end everyone was happy. Mr Tung took many crabs home that night,” Chef Lai says with a smile. 黎有甜师傅之子黎宇恒为澳门新葡京酒店餐饮部总监。 CHEF LAI'S SON KENNETH IS GRAND LISBOAMACAU'S DIRECTOR OF FOOD AND BEVERAGE.