High Life

86 品 “橡木桶固然重要，但顶级橡木窖藏红酒并不始于斯，而始于葡萄园。 葡萄品质必须上乘，方能承受橡木窖藏，何况后者的作用可不是遮丑。” Felix Ellwanger 位于巴登-符腾堡东北部小镇温特巴赫的 Weingut Jürgen Ellwanger 始 创于1949年，但 Ellwanger 家族种植葡萄及酿制葡萄酒的历史可追溯至1514 年，比马丁路德引发宗教改革还要早三年，至今已历二十多世。酒庄多年来屡获 殊荣，现由 J ö rg 和 Felix Ellwanger 兄弟二人打理，是为符腾堡乃至德国顶级 橡木窖藏红酒的中坚力量。酒庄在德国战败、被列强占领且满目疮痍之际艰苦创 立，及后经历莱茵河经济奇迹及德国葡萄酒中兴，进而将德国红酒推上国际舞 台。这家拥有26公顷葡萄园的酒庄，将继续经历并创造历史。 下列三款佳酿均在 Weingut Jürgen Ellwanger 实地品尝。此次探索之旅 由德意志列级酒庄协会符腾堡分部的 Diana Maisenh ö lder 女士和 Dietmar Maisenh ö lder 先生统筹，谨此鸣谢。 “Outstanding oak-aged reds do not begin in the barrels, important as they are, but in the vineyards. The grapes must be good enough to withstand oak influence, for oak is not there to mask defects.” Felix Ellwanger Located in Winterbach in northeastern Baden-Württemberg, Weingut Jürgen Ellwanger was officially established in 1949, but documented history of the family’s viticulture and winemaking can be traced back to 1514, spanning over 20 generations. At the helm of this multi award-winning estate are brothers Jörg and Felix Ellwanger, who are constantly pushing the boundaries of Württembergian and indeed German reds. Through Germany’s difficult post-WWII reconstruction years, Miracle on the Rhine to the German wine renaissance, this 26-hectare estate continues to make history. The following gems were tasted at Weingut Jürgen Ellwanger during a recent press trip organized by Mrs Diana Maisenhölder and Mr Dietmar Maisenhölder of VDPWürttemberg.