High Life

HIGH LIFE 91 “The Swiss have been careful to preserve their agricultural heritage, which means… the preservation of some of the world’s prettier and more inconvenient vineyards.” Jancis Robinson MW Essentially a federal republic with 26 states – called cantons – Switzerland prescribes four official languages. German is the most prevalent, with 21 cantons declaring it the sole or joint official language, followed by French (7), Italian (2) and the extremely rare Romansh (1). These cultural and linguistic boundaries are apparent on the vinous map, namely in that German-speaking cantons favor single-varietal wines, whereas Switzerland’s AOC system is unmistakably French. French-speaking cantons constitute a clear majority in both plantation and production. Switzerland produces more reds than whites, at a ratio of 6:4, and the French quartet of Chasselas, Pinot Noir, Gamay and Merlot represents awhopping 75% of hectarage nationwide. Such a concentrated vinous portfolio is unheard-of elsewhere, but Switzerland is an anomaly in various aspects. Particularly noteworthy is Chasselas, arguably Switzerland’s national variety. One of the few vitis vinifera varieties that double as table grapes, the vigorous Chasselas is often derided for being insipid and nondescript. Given care and deft hands, however, Chasselas can be complex, age-worthy and terroir- expressive. Swiss wine lacks neither quality nor character; its lack of fame is largely due to small production, of which merely 2% is exported and mostly to Germany, leaving precious little to be seen beyond Europe. Swiss wine may not be the most price-competitive, but it is definitely worth discovering.