High Life Issue #4

品 60 #4 2017 年 1 月 I taly’s Ricasoli family is taking pride in bringing its famous Chianti wine into the modern era. Baron Francesco Ricasoli represents the 32nd generation to inherit the responsibility of creating modern Chianti wine. “There are good and bad traditions and we have to try and pick the best ones,” Ricasoli explains. “Also, traditions are not static, they evolve and they are dynamic. The way we drink wine today is different from what our parents did. “So I don't feel pressure to continue the family traditions. We need to keep innovating and live in our own time otherwise we disappear. The Ricasoli family dates back to the 12th century but what we need to do is to look forward and constantly improve.” It’s somewhat similar, Ricasoli says, to how Chianti is viewed around the world. “The perception about Chianti wine has changed completely,” he continues. “Sure there is part of the world that thinks Chianti is still the glass and straw bottles with high acidity. In fact, among the top sellers, the wine has grown to be something else, something with a soul. If there is no soul, wine is just another beverage.” On the table in front of us we have several bottles showcasing colors from deep red to rosé, some carrying the family crest, some a beautiful castle and others a more modern exterior. “The castle has been in our family since the beginning,” Ricasoli says. “It is a proper castle too, a fortress not a Château.” To demonstrate, he chooses a bottle with a striking blue label. “This – the Rocca Guicciarda Chianti Classico Riserva – is a solid wine. It is a good choice for those being introduced to Chianti for the first time and will work as a great stand-alone,” he says. The Baron is right – the wine feels light on the palate, with intense notes of fruit plus floral hints. Composed of 90 percent Sangiovese, five percentMerlot and five percent Canaiolo, it is aged for 15 months 意 大利的瑞卡索家族无比自豪 地将著名的 Chianti 葡萄酒 带入了摩登时代。 弗朗西斯科·瑞卡索男爵 (Baron Francesco Ricasoli) 是瑞卡索家族第 32代，肩负着打造现代 Chianti 葡萄 酒的重任。 “传统有好有坏，我们要甄选 最好的，”弗朗西斯科解释说。“ 而且传统并非一成不变，它处于动 态的演进之中。我们今天喝葡萄酒 的方式，就不同于我们的父辈。 “因此我没有承袭家庭传统的 压力。我们需要不断创新，生活在 自己的时代，否则它就会消失。瑞 卡索家族的历史可追溯至12世纪， 但我们要做的，是向前看，与时俱 进。” 弗朗西斯科说，世界对 Chianti 的看待方式亦是如此。 “人们对 Chianti 葡萄酒的看法 已经完全改变。当然，在部分人的 印象中， Chianti 仍是那支用麦秆瓶 盛装的高酸度葡萄酒。但事实上， 在最顶级的 Chianti 生产商中，它已 经成长为一支有灵魂的葡萄酒。如 果没有灵魂，它不过是另一种饮料 而已。” 我们面前的桌上摆放着几支 Chianti 葡萄酒，颜色从深红到桃 红，有些印着家族徽章，有些是美 丽的城堡，而另一些则是更为现代 的外观。 “我们家族从一开始就拥有这 座城堡，”弗朗西斯科说。“这是 一座真正意义的城堡，不是庄园。” 他首先挑选了带有醒目蓝色标 签的瓶子。 “这支 Rocca Guicciarda Chianti Classico Riserva 口感扎实。对于首 次接触 Chianti 的人，是不错的选 择，单独饮用的效果非常好。” 瑞卡索男爵是对的。这款酒酒体 轻盈，有浓郁的果香和淡淡花香。 它由90%的桑娇维塞、5%的梅洛和5% 的卡纳奥罗混酿而成，桶中陈酿15 个月，瓶陈 6 个月。其结果是一款风 味均衡、香气馥郁的优雅葡萄酒。 桌上还有一支卓越的格拉巴 酒。“我们一直努力实现多元化，” 弗朗西斯科解释说。“格拉巴酒是 一种传统的意大利酒精饮品，我们 希望做得到位。” 秘诀是？ “优质格拉巴酒最重要的特点 是，柠檬皮的新鲜度。在这方面的 投入越多，品质就越好。” 不过，当晚的焦点显然是印有家 族城堡的 Barone Ricasoli Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione 2013 。香气显著而不失优 雅，融合了花香、成熟果香，夹杂 着甘草、香草和巧克力的气息。难 怪在世界各地广受欢迎。 “日本是我们在亚洲最大的市 场，”弗朗西斯科说。“市场更为 成熟，他们知道想要什么。中国仍 是一个增长中的市场。我认为部分 问题在于，意大利作为一个整体不 如法国做得好。我们首先需要作为 一个目的地来推广自己，以便于人 们更好地理解我们的产品。 “但 Chianti 葡萄酒的好处是， 我们不断寻求创新和改进生产过 程，品质毋庸置疑。”