High Life

品 #8 2017 年 5 月 130 博 柏利的 Trench 风衣可谓不折不扣 的时尚标志。无论品质还是设计， 都经受住了岁月的考验。 托马斯·博柏利发明棉质嘎巴甸时， 浑然不觉自己开启了怎样的历史新篇章。 此面料经久耐用且具防渗雨性能，质地柔 软轻便却能抵御恶劣气候。飞行员、探险 家，乃至整个英国军队都成为博柏利的常 客。 Trench 风衣得名于第一次世界大战 期间，意为战壕风衣，设计初衷是为了迎 合军事需要。从雨挡到腰带，每一个细节 的首要目的，是保护。肩章、枪挡与金属 D 形扣环的设计皆被引入军服，并沿用至 今且历久弥新。 上世纪 60 年代，这种典型的英伦风 格得以复兴。摩德族将其视作反叛的完美 象征。作家和艺术家常常在风衣内搭配一 件黑色高领衫，以彰显酷感。无论是《蒂 凡尼早餐》中的奥黛丽·赫本，还是亨弗 莱·鲍嘉在《卡萨布兰卡》中的浪漫角色， Trench 风衣于任何天气或场合，都显得 如此和谐。 经历了上世纪几代人精益求精的改 良，时至今日它依旧是品质与手工艺的风 向标。作为英伦气质的典范，Trench 风 衣历经 130 年而不衰，男女皆宜，成为 衣橱里的必备时尚单品。 HIGH LIFE #8 May 2017 131 B urberry’s trench coat is nothing short of a fashion icon. It has survived the test of time both in quality and design. Thomas Burberry probably didn’t know he was about to shape history when inventing gabardine, a durable and impermeable fabric soft to the touch but mighty against the elements. Pilots, explorers and eventually the entire British Army would become clients of his. The trench coat, a name given due to its usage during the Great War, was designed for military usage. From the storm shield to the waist belt, every detail is built first and foremost to protect. Epaulettes, the gun flap and metal D-rings were introduced for the military and all remain today as part of the original tailleur. This quintessential British look enjoyed a comeback during the 1960s. The Mod movement saw it as a perfect symbol of rebellion.Writers and artists were often seen wearing one with a black turtleneck under it, epitomizing a sense of cool. From Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s to Humphrey Bogart’s romantic role in Casablanca, a trench coat simply goes with everything in any kind of weather. Today, the iconic coat remains a sign of quality and craftsmanship, refined over the last century and perfected through generations. A symbol of British knowhow, the trench coat survived 130 years and is elegantly worn by both men and women. The unisex garment is a must-have item in one’s closet.