High Life

品 42 #8 2017 年 5 月 HIGH LIFE #8 May 2017 43 她问道，“你喜欢可口可乐？我也喜欢，从前每天最少喝 一罐。” 晚餐时段，利多餐室人气鼎盛。食物的香气，溢满了整个 空间。听到的，尽是葡语、粤语和不时夹杂其中的英语单词。 毫无疑问，这肯定是一间澳门土生菜餐厅。 澳门的横街窄巷数量众多，利多餐室就位于其中一条， 途人不容易寻找，找到了也不一定觉得利多餐室的外观有多吸 引。诚然，利多餐室的内部装潢极为低调。挂在墙上的老澳门 照片，可能是这里唯一的装饰物。 我们还未发问，Aida 就说，“我其实不太记得当时的澳 门。那是很久以前了，我姐夫要在墙上挂这些照片。” Aida 常被称为澳门土生菜的祖母，曾接受过不少记者采 访，采访对她而言已是司空见惯。 我称赞其食物美味，且价廉物美。她展现出真诚的微笑， 解释说，“现在我已经很少下厨了，而是将所有经验和知识传 授给别人，让他们下厨。” Aida 每天午餐和晚餐时段，必定现身利多餐室，周日亦不 例外。 她坦率地说，“我喜欢到餐厅查看情况，确保食物质素并 与顾客们交谈，这是人情味。况且，我在家也没事干。餐厅的 生意不错，新老顾客人数均不少。我真是觉得很幸运。 “葡萄牙顾客大多喜欢免治，华人顾客则倾向于中式菜 肴。我总是尽量准备一两道大家都喜欢的菜色，葡式马介休从 不间断。葡萄牙顾客可喜欢这道菜了！” 利多餐室的免治，应是澳门最佳之一。这道本地家常美食 通常将猪肉碎和牛肉碎混合，与洋葱一起煎炒，期间加入酱油 Aida is sitting down at her favorite table in the corner of Riquexó – one of the oldest Macanese restaurants in town with 40 years of history. She smiles at me while pouring my drink into a glass. “You like coca-cola?” she asks. “I do too, used to drink at least one every day.” It's dinnertime and Riquexó is bustling with conversation. The scent of spices fills the room, as does a continuous trilingual humming of Portuguese, Chinese and the occasional word of English. There can be no doubt we are in a Macanese restaurant. The place is well hidden in one of the city’s many alleys and a passerby would not find this gem easily – nor would one be especially attracted to come inside. The restaurant is quite understated in its décor and the only non-essential element is the pictures of old Macau on the walls. “I don't really recall Macau back then,” Aida answers before it is even asked. “It has been a really long time, it was my brother-in-law’s idea to hang those.” The Grandmother of Macanese cuisine, as she is often called, has been around journalists a lot so it is hard to surprise her. I congratulate her on the food. It is delicious despite the reasonable price. She produces an honest smile but adds, “I don’t cook much these days. I passed down all my knowledge and let others do the cooking.”